Most Sri Lankan safari itineraries visit Yala and then Udawalawe, which is really the same experience twice — a busy park, a jeep, a reliable sighting. This one pairs Yala with Wilpattu instead: the country's two least alike safari parks, one dense with leopard and busy with jeeps, the other larger, wilder and driven by almost nobody. The difference between them is the point of the trip, not a footnote to it.
Wilpattu is larger than Yala and carries a fraction of the vehicles — the same leopards and sloth bears, reached slowly through denser forest and around the villus, the natural lakes that give the park its name. It rewards patience rather than luck, which is the opposite lesson from Yala's crowded convoys, and taking both parks a few days apart is the only way to actually feel the difference between them rather than read about it.
Then Yala for the leopard at its most concentrated, and the southern coast for the blue whales. It is a journey built around animals, but it is not a route march between hides: there are two nights in most places and the last one is on a beach.